Splendour of a different kind exists in the Jai Vilas Palace, current residence of the Scindia family.

Some 35 rooms have been made into the Scindia Museum, and in these rooms, so evocative of a regal lifestyle, the past comes alive.

Jai Vilas is an Italianate structure which combines the Tuscan and Corinthian architectural modes. The imposing Darbar Hall has two central chandeliers, weighing a couple of tonnes, and hung only after ten elephants had tested the strength of the roof. Ceilings picked out in gilt, heavy draperies and tapestries, fine Persian carpets, and antique furniture from France and Italy are features of these spacious rooms.

Eye-catching treasures include: a silver train with cut-glass wagons which served guests as it chugged around on miniature rails on the tables; a glass cradle from Italy used for the baby Krishna each Janamashtami; silver dinner services and swords that were once worn by Aurangzeb and Shah Jahan.

There are, besides, personal mementos of the past members of the Scindia family: the jewelled slippers that belonged to Chinkoo Rani, four-poster beds, and gifts from practically every country in the world, hunting trophies and portraits. The Scindia Museum offers an unparalleled glimpse into the rich culture and lifestyle of princely India. Open every day except Wednesday from 10 am to 5.30 pm.

Entry fees are Rs. 40/- for Indian and Rs. 300/- for foreign visitors.